Teardown
The job starts with removing the tub, the surround, and any trim or fixtures that won't carry over. Removing the tub alone typically runs $150 to $300, a small piece of the total but one that has to happen before anything else can start.[1]
Once the tub is out, the crew checks the subfloor and wall framing behind it. This is the point where hidden rot, old plumbing, or mold gets found, and it's the single biggest source of a quote changing after work begins.
Plumbing rough-in
If the valve or drain stays in the same place, this step is fast: disconnect the tub spout and diverter, connect the new shower valve and head. If either one moves, each supply or drain line that relocates runs $80 to $200, which adds up quickly once you're moving two or three lines at once.[1]
This is also when a pressure-balance or thermostatic valve goes in. Plumbing codes require one of these two types, rather than a basic single-handle mixing valve, specifically for shower and tub-shower combinations.
Waterproofing and surround
For a prefab acrylic or fiberglass surround, this step is mostly skipped: the panels arrive pre-formed and go up over the existing wall with adhesive and sealant, one reason prefab conversions run $2,000 to $6,000 compared to $6,000 to $12,000 for custom tile.[2]
For a tile surround, a waterproofing membrane goes on the studs and subfloor first, either a sheet product set in thinset or a liquid coating rolled on in multiple passes, before a single tile is set.
Finish and sign-off
Grout or caulk cures, the glass door or curtain rod goes on last, and the crew runs water to check for leaks at the valve, drain and any seam before calling the job done.
Most professional conversions take three to seven days start to finish; a basic prefab swap lands at the fast end, a custom tile or curbless build at the slow end.[2]
Inspections along the way
A job that moves plumbing typically gets checked at two points: once after the rough-in, before any wall goes back up, and once at the end, after the fixtures are connected and the water is on. Covering rough plumbing before an inspector signs off on it is one of the more common reasons a permitted job stalls.
A straight swap that reuses the existing valve and drain location may only need a final inspection, since there's no new rough plumbing to check before it's covered.
What to have ready before day one
Pick your surround material, valve, and any fixtures like a handheld wand or niche shelf before demolition starts, not during it. A crew waiting on a fixture decision mid-job is one of the more avoidable causes of a schedule slipping.
Clear a path to the bathroom and set up an alternate way to bathe elsewhere in the house for the length of the job, since the shower itself is unusable from teardown until the final seal cures.